Spring Coyote Calling Deep Snow

Deer In A Clear Cut
On The River
by Duane Fronek

Spring time can be a slow time of year for a lot of hunters. Turkey season isn't quite here and most other game seasons are closed. But there is a silver lining in that dark cloud hanging over us this time of year, Coyotes! In the north coyotes are paired and females are bred for the most part, but haven't yet had their pups. Hunting coyotes this time of year can help curb deer depred
47 Pound Coyote
ation for the following winter and even the current up and coming fawn crop by taking a few of these coyotes out. Also the fur can and is still usable this time of year and can be tanned for hanging on your wall or even a hat.

For the most part this time of year coyotes have been pretty much burned out if calling is popular in your area, but there's still a few tricks you can pull out of the hat to put a coyote on the ground or should I say snow if you had a winter like we did here in northern WI.

One of the most difficult things to deal with is the deep snow that's accumulated through the winter. For one, the temps are warming and the snow gets soft and crystallized making each step you take a workout that's rival to anything a treadmill could throw at you, but its also difficult for the coyotes to get through it as well. To combat this I like to concentrate my calling to early mornings where the previous nights cold temps freezes the snow making it easy to walk on top and in turn easier for the coyote to travel and respond as well, before the mid-morning temps start turning the snow to quicksand again.

What makes these coyotes vulnerable this time of year is the fact that even though the snow is deep, it's going down in depth, which they depended on to slow deer down earlier in the year, but they could stay fairly on top to chase these deer down, because the snow wasn't crystallized and slushy. So the coyotes after eating well are now getting a little growl in their belly. Even small game such as rabbits and hares are getting tough to come by due to it being easier for those critters to get around faster, plus their numbers are down just because its the cycle of nature and multiple factors of depredation, die-off, hunting, etc. Most game populations are at their lowest this time of year just before the spring baby boom.

So where do you find the coyotes? Well coyotes are creatures of habit and opportunity, and they will still be holding close to the deer concentrations here in the north,looking for an opportunity to take a weaken animal or feeding off an old kill even if it is just bones. They'll also hang on the rivers that are still frozen with water starting to open because deer will be there as well. The deer are browsing these areas for plants just starting to pop under water and buds on tags etc that are starting to plump. Everything out there in the wild has a cycle and knowing whats going on out there will put you where you need to be.

When I call this time of year I like to just hit the howler once or twice, then wait about 10 min. Coyotes this time of year are now paired like I mentioned, but also have staked their claim to a piece of ground and usually wont tolerate another on their turf. If I don't get a response off the howl, I'll switch into a few deer distress bawls to sweeten the pot or a short series of bunny cries, then silent for a few minutes. Still if no takers I pull out my little trick that has worked beautiful this time of year and works on that territorial instinct just a tad more. I scream a short YIPE! Then go right into the distress I was using for just a few seconds, then stop. I've had coyotes pop out just like that on that combo that were reluctant to show because of being burned out and call shy to the usual sounds they've been accustom to thru the winter. I like using an open reed call that's easy to blow for the combo, because you can switch from yip to distress without missing a beat. I believe it gives the impression the coyote just suffered a kick or bite and the the instant distress is from the instant retaliation the prey just received. I've been playing with that combo the last few years and have had excellent results from it in tough calling conditions like late season. And when you get that coyote coming in and your zeroed in on him/her and ready to shoot,BARK! if it's running in or moving. The coyote will come to a stop increasing your odds of a well placed shot that connects and puts it to the ground.

So if you want to kill the late winter blues and spring turkey fever, go harass a few yotes, it"ll brighten your day.

Fall Coyote Hunting Tips

Most hunters do their coyote hunting after deer seasons end. They usually don’t get out until December or January. While winter hunting is fun, fall hunting may be the best hunting of the year. Coyotes haven’t yet been educated by deer hunters or other predator hunters. When deer hunting gets into that period just before pre-rut it seems like action hits a lull. That is a great time to sneak in a few fall coyote hunts. Some states have very liberal coyote hunting seasons that allow hunting in late August and early September. This is a great time of year to put a few coyotes on the ground.

As summer comes to an end pups mature and start venturing out on their own. They’re forced to make their own kills to survive. This is the time to use your in distress calls. The classic rabbit in distress call that may not get much attention in February will often have young coyotes falling over each other to find out what the ruckus is all about. Predators respond to distress calls for a number of reasons other than hunger. Often times they’re just curious about what is going on within their territory. Younger coyotes may be attracted to the novelty of the sound while older, more established coyotes move in to protect a potential meal on their hunting grounds.

Distress calls are great for bringing coyotes in but don’t stop calling after you’ve made a shot. Veteran coyote hunters almost always hit their hurt pup call after putting a bullet through a ‘yote any time of year. This technique can be even more effective in the fall when young coyotes are often still living as a pack with others.

Another advantage to hunting coyotes in the fall is added cover. It’s much easier to find a good place to hide when trees and brush are still covered in leaves. Keep in mind, the coyotes have more cover too. If you’re hunting in a forested area, they can get pretty close before you lay eyes on them. Being still and scent free is just as important, if not more, in the fall. Don’t forget to hunt with the wind in your face but remember a coyote’s first instinct will be to circle downwind of where they believe their next meal is.

Many of your winter time hotspots can be very good in the fall. If you’ve seen coyotes in a location before, there is a good chance you’ll find them there again. Keep a log book of your success in all of the locations you have access too. Don’t be afraid to try new spots but start with my most productive hunting areas first.

Fall coyote hunting is often overlooked… but it may be the best time of the year to get up close and personal with some song dogs.

New Hampshire Teen Attacked By Coyote

CONCORD, N.H. - Fish and Game Department personnel are alerting residents of Hopkinton, N.H., to the likely presence of a rabid coyote, following an attack on a local teenager yesterday (February 22, 2012).

The young man was walking the family dog in a wooded area near his home when the coyote approached him. The dog ran away, at which point the coyote attacked the teenager. The teen defended himself, reportedly punching the coyote in the nose until the coyote left the scene. During the interaction, the teenager was scratched and possibly bitten by the coyote. The teen sought medical treatment, and is receiving a course of rabies shots as a precaution.

Though there are occasional reports of rabid wild animals attacking humans in New Hampshire, Pat Tate, wildlife biologist with Fish and Game, said that the coyote attack was highly unusual. "It's the first time we know of that a coyote has attacked a person in New Hampshire," he said. Tate noted that earlier in the week, a local dog was also attacked by a coyote, and required veterinary care. "We suspect that it's the same coyote, and that the coyote is rabid, given the uncharacteristic aggressiveness of the attacks. For local residents, that means they should be aware of the presence of coyotes, and they should know the signs of a rabid animal." He added, "This incident, scary as it was, gives us no reason to fear wild animals in general."

Tate points out that it's not that unusual to see a coyote at any time of day or night. "The species is spread out around the state. Seeing a coyote in woodland landscape, one that's acting normal, is fine," he said. Normal behavior, for a coyote, is expressing no interest in humans or pets. "If a coyote displays any interest in a human - whether friendly or aggressive - that's unusual, and that's when you need to be on alert."

Martin Garabedian, chief of Law Enforcement for N.H. Fish and Game, says that Conservation Officers and Hopkinton Police Department personnel are in the area, looking for signs of the rabid coyote. "In the interest of public safety, when the officers find the animal in question, they will dispatch it and send it for rabies testing," he said.

If someone sees a coyote, Tate recommends yelling at it to instill fear. Healthy coyotes will retreat when faced with loud noises or thrown objects. "Obviously, you never want to approach a wild animal. But if you are in a situation where you are outdoors near a coyote, shout at it, make sure it knows you're a threat," Tate advises. "If it comes at you, hit it hard on the head and snout."

Calling, Keeping it Simple for Success

A successful coyote hunt
By Duane Fronek

So what does it take to be successful at calling coyotes? Which call is the best? Which E-caller should I buy that’ll call em’ all in, what’s the best camo or rifle or decoy? And the list goes on. There is a ton of info out there today on predator calling from DVD’s, internet websites to YouTube. Sometimes I think it’s too much for a person just getting into calling, it causes confusion and hopes and doubts and sometimes misinformation especially from novice callers making simple mistakes that they don’t realize at the time and then passing that info on. But on the flip side of it there is a lot of good info out there and you have to sift through it to see what the real deal is, using common sense when taking all the info in helps. Think about what your reading and watching and compare it to your area. I tend to shy away from those that use the two words “never” and “always”, those words are the downfall of most callers. There is no cut and dried reaction coyotes will exhibit or calls that are “thee” calls or stand setup, etc. Coyotes are coyotes with free will, they don’t read manuals or watch DVD’s or test calls before there sold. There just coyotes and anything can and will happen, they do what they please.

The best thing a new recruit to predator calling can do is, keep it simple. The worst mistake I’ve seen is, novice callers depending too much on what I call add-ons the gizmos and gadgets out there today, thinking it will make up for their handicap of being new to this type of hunting. But keeping it simple, I believe, will help you reach success faster. It forces you in a sense to pay attention to what really makes a stand produce, like location, wind, time of year and setting up unnoticed to name a few. There are no really big secrets to being successful, predator populations and terrain will determine that.

But there are two secrets that are over looked, those are “Patience” and “Persistence”. Those two words are keys to being successful on stand. It takes patience, sure some will have luck first time out, much like that 12 year olds first deer hunt and bagging that “Booner”, but it’s not the norm. I’m not saying it can’t happen, because it does. Some areas of the country have high numbers of coyotes and success at calling them in is higher than in areas with lower numbers like the upper Midwest or the east where not just lower predator numbers are a factor but more importantly terrain. Sound travels differently depending on land features and vegetation. Big woods, hilly country or big ridge country tends to make your sounds travel not as far or head a different direction, wind currents are trickier, such as the main wind can be coming from the north but with the lay of the land could swirl and actually come from the south depending on how the hills and ridges are and even vegetation with heavy cedar or balsams. It is my opinion that mouth calls actually shine in these scenarios because of the volume you can get out of them, they can penetrate and travel further than e-callers. Don’t get me wrong though, e-callers are a good tool to use, but if you’re using one to compensate for your inexperience you’re using it the wrong way. Take decoys for instance, there just another tool, but if you’re using them to compensate, then again you’re using it in the wrong context. If you think about it, the decoy is setup within your eyesight, and in reality if that coyote see’s the decoy, chances are you’ll see the coyote as well. Decoys aren’t really meant to draw in a coyote from afar, but more to distract his attention off you. An artificial coyote set up can draw them in though to a point but chances are he’s within shooting range, but maybe sneaking in staying hidden. I’ll use a Rezno coyote cut out decoy sometimes, but it’s usually toward the end of winter when coyotes are getting wised up. Take for example a stand I called in 8 coyotes in and shot 7 off of one winter, the first 5 came pretty easy, but the 6th one would not come out and play, it would stay hidden in the thick balsam and I could only catch glimpses of it. So the next time in to that stand I took the Rezno coyote and set it up, it worked slick, the 7th and 8th coyote I killed there were fixed on the decoy and pulled them out of hiding, I think that type of decoy can put a pressured coyote at ease and make them present a better shot.

Another simple thing that can be done and will greatly increase your chances of making a clean kill is to “woof” or “bark” once, when the coyote is moving in and is within shooting range. This simple trick will 9 times out of 10 will stop a moving coyote in its tracks, offering you a better shot. Too many times callers will attempt a shot on a moving coyote that’s coming in, and by doing that you lower your chances of a bang flop. And many times I’ve see the shot connect but the coyote runs off requiring another shot or a tracking job. By stopping them with a woof, the coyote presents a standing still shot, which in turn will up your chances of connecting. I have found though that the woof only works once, if you miss, there gone and the woof won’t stop them again, sometimes it will but the chances are lower. I’ve found in that scenario that switching to kiyi’s and really laying into them repeatedly in that situation can work better, in that you can get the coyote to turn around and come running in your direction, even the coyote that was shot at and missed. Just simple kiyi’s.

I think by now you get the idea of keeping things simple, at least I hope. Now, let’s look at “Persistence”. Persistence is a major factor in calling coyotes. The more you call, the more stands you make the better your chances are at connecting. But it doesn’t end there. Stand selection is important as is there needs to be coyotes there. Just because you didn’t call in a coyote, doesn’t mean you’re doing it wrong, could be just as simple as there are no coyotes within ear shot at that particular stand. And the later into the season you get, the harder the calling becomes. The only coyotes left are the pressured veteran’s that have heard the death cries a few times. I notice where a lot of callers park and go say 100yds off the road and call, which I do myself, but late in the season that game changes and you need a better plan of attack. If you know your area well, you should know where the thick stuff is or the swamps or creek bottoms that are far off the road and these are the places go to avoid the pressure and that’s where they’ll stay. I’ve many times walked a mile or better to get into a good calling spot, experience over the years have taught me where to go when the calling gets tough. I’ve also found, that when you crawl way back in the sticks and call far away from the rest of the crowd, these coyotes come in fairly easy and fast. It’s just as if they’ve never been called to. I think with them being away from the normal haunts of the caller, the coyote lets his guard down and I put mine up. Because when they quite coming to you, you need to change tactics and go in after them. Being persistent is a key to success; ignore those that say it doesn’t pay to go after those pressured dogs, because it does, you just need to be determined. Do your homework, look at topo maps, and go in and find them, because they’re there and ready and willing to come to the call, you just have to go to them.

By being patient, persistent and simple, you’re sure to connect. Factors out of your control like terrain, coyote population and weather will determine how successful you will be and if you apply the KISS method along with being patient and persistent, you will be more likely to con a coyote out of his hide than the caller depending too much on gizmo’s and gadgets. Everything has a place, even the add on’s but first you’re better off building off the basic’s and bring the add on in down the road. Nothing works every time or all the time, but studying your area and your experiences on the stand will eventually show you what works for you and when. And before you know it, you’ll be knockin’ em’ down.

Good Luck and Happy Calling!

Six Coyote Hunting Tips For Beginners

Coyote hunting is one of the fastest growing hunting sports in America. Populations are strong, land access is easier to come by, regulations are liberal, and coyotes are challenging to hunt. For newcomers to the sport, the challenge can lead to frustration. These six tips will help smooth the learning curve.

Being Downwind Is Vital
The number one rule for coyote hunting is staying downwind. Coyotes are primarily driven by their noses. They find food and seek safety by scent. Ignoring the wind while whitetail hunting is costly. In coyote hunting, it’s devastating. If winds are swirling or your setups are no good for the prevailing wind, it’s a good day to do some scouting. If an approaching coyote looks uneasy, he is most likely trying to find a way to get downwind of you.

Wait For Mates
Where there is one coyote, there are others. If a coyote stops and looks around a lot while coming in, there is a good chance there is another coyote. It is a good idea to wait for the other coyote to appear before shooting. If the newcomer takes off running on the shot, hit him with a Ki-Yi call. The Ki-Yi is a distress call and it will often stop a coyote and give you a chance to shoot.


E-Callers Ease The Learning Curve
Electronic calls are illegal for many game species. But when it comes to coyotes, it’s open season in most states. Electronic calls or E-calls make it simple for novice hunters to call as well as a veteran. Most come with a wide range of calls including coyote vocalizations and prey distress calls like screamers. Remote control features make operating them simple.

Shooting Sticks Kill Coyotes
Coyotes are often shot at long distances. Shooting sticks will steady the shot and ensure accuracy. More importantly, if your gun is ready on shooting sticks, less movement is needed to prepare for the shot. Movement will bust you just as often as scent while coyote hunting.

Concealment Is Key
Head-to-toe camouflage is a necessity. Pants, jackets, gloves, hats, and face covers are not an option. Scent blocking clothing is big business in the whitetail community. Scent is even more important when coyote hunting. You should always play the wind, but scent blockers will help if a coyote circles around you.

Put Some Miles On
If there are receptive coyotes in the area you are hunting, they will come to calling within 15 or 20 minutes. Don’t spend more than a half hour at any given setup. On calm days on flat land, you may want to move a half mile or more to the next set. If conditions are windy or terrain is steep, you could move as little as a few hundred yards before starting to call again. Remember to always approach a new hunting area downwind of where you believe coyotes will approach.

If you’re getting started in coyote hunting, these tips should make finding success a little easier. The best way to learn the finer points of whacking ‘yotes is to hunt with an experienced coyote assassin. If that isn’t possible, the folks here at foremostcoyotehunting.com have you covered. Good luck!

Basic Coyote Trapping Equipment

(getting started)

By Duane Fronek

Well to get started trapping coyotes I guess is to know what equipment to use and how to use them. Considering you read or watched some information on trapping or took a trapper ed class, we’ll start out on what trap to use for coyotes. There are many brands and sizes of traps out there and they all work, some are less effective than others, but the main thing just like anything else is, using the right tool for the job. My trap choice for coyotes are a couple but mainly the traps are size #3’s they have a jaw spread of 6”-6.5”, the bigger the better, coyotes are a tough animal and you shouldn’t under estimate their power, I’ve seen coyotes tear up traps and get out, they are a tough animal and have some power in those jaws. The size #3 trap whether you use the Bridgers, Dukes, MB 650’ or Jakes all give you ample jaw spread and catch area for getting a good hold on a coyotes paw. Some guys use 1.75’s and size #2 traps, but in my humble opinion their handicapping themselves with misses or pullouts, but it may be that the size restriction for jaw spread is less than 6” as some states restrict you to a smaller jaw spread. So check your regs for your state. Traps can be purchased through trap supply companies and there are plenty out there and most are pretty reputable. To give you an idea of who to buy from, Kaatz Bros., Minn Trapline, F&T are all reputable and fast shipping.

Now the trap. Below is a pic of a typical #3 trap used for coyotes, it’s pretty self explanatory as to it’s make up, but is intended for reference. What is added is jaw laminations, you can weld these on yourself or order them already done. They consist of 3/16” rod that helps widen the jaw face and prevent injury. Also some traps when closed will have a gap between the jaws of about a ¼”, this gap is called an offset and some states require it. You can buy traps either or without offsets. I like offsets and theres plenty of debate whether there better or not, but to each his own. Over time you’ll develop a preference and style that’s unique to you.

#3 trap used for coyotes
Next on the list is your staking system. There are many systems on the market, the most used today I believe are cable stakes, next are rebar stakes and for coyotes rebar stakes 30” long with a welded washer on top is the minimum length to use on coyotes. I use to use rebar, but hauling rebar stakes, especially if your toting a 100 or so can be quite heavy hauling in a pickup. I’ve switched over to cable stakes about 5-6 years ago, they take up less room and are lighter, and in my opinion, hold better. They usually are about 15” in length and you can buy them or the components and make your own. There basically driven into the ground with a driver and when there completely in the ground you give them a jerk and it sets them.There attached to your trap chain with a 3/16” quick link. The chain on your trap should have swivels in it’s length to allow the trap to freely rotate when the coyote is trapped, to prevent pullouts and injury. Below is a diagram of how mine are setup.

Trap Chain Set Up
Now below is a diagram of how a cable stake is used. You drive it in with the driver, then when you have your stake drove in, remove the driver and give the stake a tug. This sets the cable stake end to prevent the stake from pulling out.
Cable Stake Set Up
Now for tools needed. You’ll need a good hammer to drive in stakes a chipper on the back for hard ground or frozen ground. Gloves, leather work the best, a dirt sifter for sifting dirt over your trap, a trowel for digging trap beds, stakes and driver. Below is a pic of your basic tools.
Basic Trapping Equipment Needed For Trapping Coyotes


This is your basic trapping equipment, besides pan covers, which I will cover in putting in a set. I basically use wax paper. It’s used to go over the trap pan before sifting the dirt over your set. It prevents dirt from getting under your pan, which will prevent your trap from firing. To carry your equipment in the field a clean 5 gal. bucket works or a utility bag you find at hardware stores, both work. To haul traps in a good Rubbermaid tote with a lid is fine, size depends on how many traps you have, I have a 48 gal tote with a hinged lid, its tough and durable, mines still going after 20 years, before that I kept them in a large wooden box I built.

2-55gallon barrels for boiling traps

Trap preparation is important here as well. It keeps your traps in good shape and keeps them clean of foreign odors. There are a couple ways to approach this. New traps need to be degreased of factory oils, you can do this by taking to a car wash and pressure washing them with hot water and soap, or you can boil in a large metal container with water and dawn dish soap, the regular original stuff, or red devil lye. Disclaimer: BE CAREFUL WHEN BOILING TRAPS< SPILLS CAN CAUSE SEVER BURNS. You can use a turkey fryer to do this or and concrete blocks with a barrel 30-55gal.and build a fire under it. After boiling for say an hour, let it cool then fill the barrel with more water till it runs over the top. This takes all the oil floating off the top and you can pull your traps out. Once the traps are out throw them in the grass for a couple days till they get a light rust. Now there ready to dye. There are several things you can use to dye traps with. You basically fill your container you cleaned your traps in and add commercial logwood powder that you can get from trap supply places, or you can use black walnut hulls, staghorn sumac bulbs, the red tops. Or maple leaves that have fallen in the fall, green doesn’t work. You add dye according to directions or for the organic ones about a 5gal. Bucket for 25-30 gal of water. Bring this to a boil with your traps and dye in the water, once the water starts boiling, cut the heat back so it simmers and leave simmer for a half hour, then let it cool, once cool, drain the water off the top, and remove traps, let the traps dry in the sun,they’ll dry fast. While your traps are drying it’s time to get your wax melting for the final step. Melting pure wax in a container like a stock pot works great, you’ll need about 20ibs. Of wax. DISCLAIMER AGAIN: HOT WAX IS FLAMMABLE AND CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS! I know, I’ve down it. Melt the wax in the container preferably outside with a burner like on a turkey cooking outfit. Once the wax is melted you use a piece of heavy wire or rod with the end bent like a hook. You lower your trap in the hot wax and leave it there till the trap turns black again. When you first dip your trap it’ll turn white because its cold and the wax turns white, but once its heated to the same temp,it turns black and is ready to pull out. I then hang the trap to dry on s-hooks made of wire on to a nail from a rafter or clothes line, put cardboard underneath so dripping wax doesn’t mess up a garage floor etc. Once the wax is dry, the traps can be put into whatever container your going to haul them around in.

An easier method are the dips, clean your traps by any of the methods above. The dips are mixed with gas, the hight the octane the better, but the best is to mix the dip with white gas or lantern fuel as per directions on the can of dip purchased from a trapping supply dealer. Once traps are dipped, hang to dry as you would if there waxed. Once dry, the gas odor evaporates leaving the traps dyed and odoless, sounds funny, doesn’t it, but it works. It’s best to do this in the summer to help dry them faster. Again the dips are flammable so keep away from flames. When your done dipping the dip can be stored according to directions on the product.. The next step is adjusting and then setting the traps which I’ll cover in my next article. Enjoy!

So, you want to trap coyotes?

With the ever growing coyote population, predator calling has become a popular sport and useful tool in coyote control in some areas. But is it really totally effective on the whole for keeping coyote numbers in check? The answer is no. With the rise in predator callers out there, there is a rise in call shy coyotes due to novice callers making mistakes, which in itself is a given as with the guys that are good at it made the same mistakes while they learned the skill to calling. So whats another way of efficiently keeping coyotes in check? Trapping. Trapping coyotes can be a challenge for the novice just starting out. There are lots of things to consider or learn to trap a coyote. But the good news is,they are not as smart as some give them credit for, they are just another animal that lacks the thought process we have. They’re programmed for killing, eating and breeding, that’s it, and that’s what drives their thought process. And that’s what a trapper cashes in on when it comes to these critters.

Author Poses with a trapped coyote

There’s a lot of literature, media etc. that’s aimed at trapping coyotes. Some of the better books out there are Craig O’Gormans “Hoof beats of a Wolfer” or Clint Locklears “Eastern Wolfer” both excellent books on coyote trapping. You tube has some good videos as well, like yours truly “me” have some educational vids here. 


One of the first steps is taking a trapper ed course. Most states have them now,just like hunter ed. Trapper ed is mandatory in some states before being allowed to trap. The main reason behind trapper ed,is just like hunter ed. To teach you the basic of trapping, the ethics, the laws and safety. It’s a good program. A lot of states have trapping associations that hold rondy’s that hold trapping demo’s with well seasoned trappers, and at the National level you have the Fur Takers of America http://www.furtakersofamerica.com/ and the National Trappers Association http://www.nationaltrappers.com/ both of which are excellent and fight for your rights to trap. And they also hold a yearly convention that brings in thousands of trappers from across the country. They have everything imaginable related to trapping plus demos all day throughout the whole convention with top trappers from across the country giving you there info and methods. It’s quite the learning experience.

Another successful trapping mission

So basically to get started trapping coyotes you need to educate yourself, do your homework so to speak. In future articles I will take you threw various stages to get started, how to get set up equipment wise, scouting, location, setting up a trapline etc. to get you on the right track to trapping ole wiley. He’s really not that hard to trap, you just need to be observant and a student of the coyote, let him show you what trips his trigger to put his paw on the pan.

Trapping for the most part is a very efficient way of controlling coyote numbers, it is probably the most efficient tool in taking coyotes period. Trapping has been villianized by animal rights groups for years, the 1970’s had quite an upswing in TV ads showing graphic pictures of animals distressed in traps, pets caught etc. What most people don’t know is a lot of it was staged, yes staged. They sacrificed animals to save the rest, their end justified their means so to speak. The bottom line with these groups isn’t saving animals, it’s lining the pockets with big salaries. In my opinion, the animal rights groups exploit animals for monetary gain. Trappers and Hunters are valuable management tools utilizing renewable resources putting their money where their mouth is compared to the AR groups that put very little if anything to their so called cause except their own pockets which drives their incentive, not poor animals as they put it.

In the upcoming articles I’ll take you through the different steps in pursuing the coyote by trapping and hopefully put you on to your first trapped coyote and a passion you never thought you had.